Wine Wednesday

In any given month, there are a slew of random food, drink and other categories of “national holidays.”  As it turns out, today is National Seafood Bisque Day!  It’s defined as a day when “fans of seafood bisque indulge in this rich, smooth flavorful soup. Seafood Bisque can be made in a variety of ways, but it often includes combinations of crab, crayfish, shrimp or lobster, cream, spices and dry sherry, wine or cognac.”  That said, I thought I’d share the recipe for our decadent Velvet Lobster Bisque.  (This recipe is featured in Morton’s The Cookbook, and it’s also available on our lunch and dinner menus.)

But holidays and celebrations just aren’t complete without food AND drink.  So since it’s also “Wine Wednesday,” I wanted to feature a selection from our new Wines by the Glass list that pairs beautifully with this warm, smooth, creamy bit of heaven.

FEATURED WINE:  JEAN-LUC COLOMBO VIOGNIER “LA VIOLETTE”
APPELLATION: Languedoc, VdP
VINTAGE: 2009
FLAVOR PROFILE: Intense flavors of acacia, yellow peaches and exotic fruits
THE STORY: Hailed as the winemaking wizard of the Rhône, Jean-Luc Colombo has achieved a high-profile, international reputation for making innovative wines that are original, memorable and bursting with personality. Jean-Luc is an avid fisherman and boater, and he owns a Boston Whaler that he keeps in the Mediterranean. Jean-Luc loves animals and has two Golden Retrievers, three cats, two donkeys and 1 1/2 dozen chickens.

FEATURED RECIPE:  VELVET LOBSTER BISQUE

It’s one of the few recipes in Morton’s The Cookbook that require some advance planning and a little fuss.  Making the lobster stock takes time, and you need to buy lobsters for their shells (which is expensive), and then find something else to do with the lobster meat (could be worse).  You will also need two large stockpots.  While there are no shortcuts, we do recommend giving this a try for special occasions…because it’s definitely worth it!

Serves 10
Makes about 3 quarts

2 quarts Lobster Bisque Stock (see below)
4 cups heavy cream
1 cup dry white wine
½ packed cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon brandy
1 ½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Lobster meat from stock, warmed, for garnish
Chopped fresh curly-leaf parsley, for garnish

1. In a large pot, bring the Lobster Bisque to a boil over medium-high heat.  Stir in the heavy cream.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the wine and cornstarch until smooth.  Add to the hot stock and whisk constantly for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the soup simmers and thickens.
3. Stir in the brandy, salt, white pepper and cayenne.  Serve immediately, garnished with lobster meat and parsley.

NOTE:  To warm the lobster meat, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil.  Remove the pan from the heat, drop the lobster meat into the hot water for 45 seconds, and then drain well.

Lobster Bisque Stock
Makes 2 quarts

3 ½ to 4 pounds small (chicken) lobsters or other fresh lobsters
1 ½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium carrots, peeled and roughly chopped (about ¾ cup)
1 medium Spanish onion, roughly chopped (about ¾ cup)
1 large celery rib, roughly chopped (about ¾ cup)
1 garlic clove, chopped
2/3 cup tomato paste
8 curly-leaf parsley sprigs, rinsed well and thick stems trimmed

1. In a large stockpot, bring about 5 gallons of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the lobsters and cook, partially covered, at a gentle boil for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the lobsters are red. Remove the lobsters with tongs, drain in a colander, reserving the lobster cooking water, and set aside for at least 30 minutes to cool.
2. When the lobsters are cool enough to handle, remove the meat form the lobsters, including the claws and tails, reserving the shells. Cut the meat into large chunks, trimming any rough edges, and reserve the meat, covered in the refrigerator, to garnish the bisque.
3. Put the remaining lobster shells in two heavy-duty plastic bags. Wrap the bags in a kitchen towel and smash the shells with a mallet, a rolling pin, or the flat side of a skillet.
4. Meanwhile, in another large stockpot, heat the oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the carrots, onion, celery, and garlic and sauté, partially covered, for about 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned. Add the crushed lobster shells and sauté for about 15 minutes.
5. Add 12 cups of reserved lobster cooking water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the tomato paste and parsley and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer the stock, partially covered, for 1 ½ hours, skimming off any fat and froth that float to the surface of the liquid.
6. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large metal bowl, pressing down on the vegetables and shells to release all the liquid. You need 8 cups of liquid. If necessary, pour additional lobster cooking water or tap water over the shells in the sieve and into the bowl until you have 8 cups. Discard the shells and vegetables.
7. If not using right away, put the bowl in a larger bowl of ice and water and let cool. Cover and refrigerate for several hours, or until chilled. Transfer the stock to a covered storage container and refrigerate for up to 4 days. The stock can be frozen for up to 7 days if frozen as soon as it’s prepared.

NOTE: Small lobsters have thinner, softer shells than larger ones and so are easier to crush. They also may be less expensive than larger ones. You don’t need to buy small lobsters, though. Larger lobsters will also work.

Enjoy!

Sara Fasolino
Beverage Manager/Certified Sommelier and Mixologist
Morton’s The Steakhouse

Our Velvet Lobster Bisque is a lovely indulgence and decadently divine.  What’s the most memorable, most indulgent dish you’ve had the good fortune to enjoy?